Sizing Accuracy: Your experiences?
December 9, 2010
Here’s an open question to the readers: what have your experiences been with the sizing of binders?
Someone asked me how accurate the sizing chart for Underworks binders actually was. Since I’ve never bought a binder from them, I couldn’t really answer, but it’s a really important question when you think about it.
So, of the binders you’ve bought, how have the manufacturer’s measurement guidelines worked for you? This reader is looking for specific details on Underworks, but feel free to comment on other manufacturers.
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December 11, 2010 at 5:41 pm
My measurements fell on the small end of the Large, for the 997, so that’s what I got.
Unfortunately, it’s also my first binder ever, so I’m not sure if its snugness is normal or if I got a size too small. It’s definitely snug and kind of a struggle to get into, but it’s not a horrible experience, either. I’m just glad I didn’t get a medium.
December 23, 2010 at 3:34 pm
Generally, people say to buy one size up@ first, depending on whether you fall on the small or large size of their numbers. I was on the border of xsmall and small, the small fit very well – the xs was I almost couldn’t get into. Recently, however, they upped their fit by about half a size. Their numbers are the same, but I now wear xs, though it’s a bit tight.
If you have trouble getting the binder over your shoulders, stretch it over you hips first a couple times then try over your shoulders again. If you have that much dificulty though, go for the size up: it’s easier, safer, and binds about the same.
January 6, 2011 at 7:47 am
I’m a 34DD and ordered a medium 997. It fits, but is a tad big to bind as well as I’d like. I just ordered a large loveboat and it’s also a tad big. It’s also a TON more comfy than the underworks. The ‘order up if you’re a c or d’ is not a good idea, in my experience.
May 15, 2011 at 6:50 pm
I’ve been living full male for almost two years now and using Underworks as my preferred compression. The thing with them is they are built for CISmen, so finding something that fits and creates a realistic silhouette is difficult–especially since so many trans*guys want to be perfectly, absolutely flat, I’ve noticed, which just is not how guys are built unless they are complete rails.
What I do is go off my waist measurement rather then my chest measurement. I’ve got a pretty stout rib cage, but my waist/loin area (the distance between the bottom of my ribs and the top of my hips) is pretty squat. It doesn’t compact much from my rib cage. This puts me into their XS size, which gives me a pretty reliable silhouette. I can actually wear my XS with one of my Small ones over it and be completely comfortable for up to 16 to 18 hours in a day–but I’m used to long term binding these days.
As it is, I started out with Smalls, and still own several of those just to wear around the house. I do NOT bind with my Smalls because they just don’t give me the silhouette I’m looking for–hell, my girlfriend gets a better silhouette in my Smalls than I do, and she has a 40D rack. If it’s the first Underworks, or any binder, you’re buying, I recommend going for chest size around the largest part of the chest, and going for the size that corresponds with that. Start off wearing it for short periods, getting used to the binder. After a couple months/a year+ of that, venture into a different brand or size. Our bodies are constantly changing and adapting–and these are vests/shirts that are meant to change the weight/fat distribution of the torso, so of course your body will change a little as you wear your favorite binder!
May 30, 2011 at 2:04 pm
I was on the border between medium and large, so i went for medium, and think i could have gone even smaller. I have the small now, but i’ve also lost quite a bit of wait. I get confused though, all the guys i know complain about having difficulty getting them on, and the bruising, i don’t have any of these problems, and i feel my chest is more visible, it makes me think that i should be binding tighter
July 18, 2011 at 2:50 pm
Underworks seems pretty accurate. I got a medium and it fit my 34 B chest pretty well, but it doesn’t bind well once it looses it’s shape. I don’t know whether to get another one in small next time.
August 15, 2011 at 9:12 am
T-Kingdom’s size guide seems a little off to me. I was Medium for height/weight but just fell into Large for chest circumference (I’m 34B), so I got a Large (since they advise first-timers to go larger rather than smaller).
It’s definitely too big. I have quite a slim build so it actually sticks out where it ends above my stomach instead of sitting/clinging against my body. I’m going to exchange it for a Medium.
I think the problem is T-Kingdom’s designed for Asian builds, so the sizing guide assumes that if you have a large chest you must be quite large all over (i.e. the measurement’s mostly chest, not mostly breast!)…
September 1, 2011 at 12:41 am
Hello Ive been having trouble understanding about the measurements like how people have to it and I want to get one but I dont want to get one to small or to big can someone please help me and I see people putting 36dd or 36a or something smiliar to that what does that mean and someone please respond to my question because I want to get one tomarrow and my measurements said to different things I mean whats the first and next to last step if responded im really thankful and really appreciated
September 2, 2011 at 3:47 pm
A 36DD would mean a band size of 36 inches (the length around your rib cage), while the DD refers to the cup size. In this case, the measurement around the widest part of the chest is likely about 40 inches (~4 inches longer than the band size). A 36A would be similar, but the measurement around the widest point would be less than 1 inch longer than the ribcage measurement, Your best bet would be to take your measurement in inches or cm, then convert them if necessary.
September 14, 2011 at 9:53 pm
I thought I’d just leave a copy of a reply I had from an Underworks sales rep when I emailed awhile ago, asking about their sizing.
“All garments that have high collars like t-shirts or muscles shirts like the 974 are going to be slightly bigger as they do not offer the flexibility of stepping into the garment as the 997 does.”
September 15, 2011 at 1:42 pm
Wow, that’s really good to know. I’ve never even thought about that, but it makes sense. I wouldn’t be surprised if other manufacturers have similar discrepancies between binder styles for the same reason.
October 30, 2011 at 9:48 pm
does anyone “here” have a peecock brand binder? i realize that underworks has some die-hard fans, but i somehow imagine that the velcro on the peecock’s (3) mid lengths (as compared to the underworks tri-top) would afford one more control over severity of compression – on a day-to-day basis. also, i wonder if the peecock mids might roll up a little less, atleast near abouts the velcro..? i’m around 5’1″ & kind of concerned about the length of these “mid lengths” – as i assume the models are taller than 5’1″. any advice or information would be *much* appreciated. thanks
December 20, 2011 at 10:10 am
I don’t have a peecock brand Velcro, but I do have a t-kingdom brand with Velcro. I wouldn’t recommend any with a hook and loop patch closure (that’s all Velcro is). After a while the hooks bend and loops break and it doesn’t close properly. And the Velcro tend to slip if you move wrong because the closure is under your arm. Good luck if you go with one of those. Everyone I’ve spoken to who has a Velcro closure (no matter the brand) has the same problem. The velcro slips and likes to cut into the skin under your arm.
December 23, 2011 at 8:00 pm
I too have a t-kingdom binder with velcro fastening on the side, and while I don’t have that particular problem with mine (I used to, but then it stretched a bit and I found a technique for putting it on that worked for me, and losing ~30lbs probably helped too…) I do find that if you unfasten the velcro too fast, you’ll scratch the hell out of your chest. So, moral being, exact chest measurements matter with side velcro (also: velcro can be bloody painful).
Actually, I’m considering replacing everything that *isn’t* the velcro’d part on that binder with better materials now that I have a sewing machine (and then the next project– the quest to make the perfect binder. If I find something that works, I’ll share my plans and how to adapt ‘em.) If you’re any good at sewing or have someone you trust who is, it may even be worth it to buy a size up and personalize it to your shape.